A VISIT TO NINETY SIX NATIONAL HISTORIC SITE IN SOUTH CAROLINA'S OLD 96 DISTRICT
By Jo Clark

South Carolina has plenty of history tucked away in unexpected places, and Ninety Six National Historic Site is one of them. It's an old backcountry settlement, a Revolutionary War battlefield, and an eight-point earthen fort that has stood for more than 240 years.

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How Ninety Six Got Its Name
So how did a town in South Carolina end up being called Ninety Six? Back in the early 1700s, traders traveled from Charleston toward the Cherokee village of Keowee, near the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains. After covering nearly 200 miles, they figured they had about 96 miles left. And just like that, Ninety Six had a name.

Ninety Six Grows Up
As settlers arrived, Ninety Six grew into an important backcountry crossroads. Twelve roads and paths converged here, and by the 1770s the village had become a busy little community with homes, taverns, shops, a jail, and a courthouse. Its location made it valuable—and increasingly vulnerable—as tensions between Patriots and Loyalists grew.

Ninety Six was the location of two significant Revolutionary War conflicts. In November 1775, Patriot and Loyalist forces clashed here in what is recognized as the first major land battle of the American Revolution in the South.

The fighting returned on a much larger scale in 1781. In March 1781, Greene and his 4,400 American Patriot (Rebel) troops fought the brutal Battle of Guilford Courthouse in Greensboro, North Carolina. This article, Guilford Courthouse National Military Park, tells the story of the battle and the military park that commemorates it. By May, Greene and his troops were in Ninety Six.

During Major General Nathanael Greene's Southern Campaign, Patriot forces tried to take the fortified Loyalist stronghold here. Beginning May 22, 1781, Greene's troops laid siege to Ninety Six, where about 550 Loyalists held out against a much larger Patriot force. The fighting continued until June 18, making it the longest land siege of the Revolutionary War.

The Patriots eventually pulled back without capturing the fort. Today, you can walk the grounds where the siege took place and see some of the defenses that made Ninety Six such a difficult target.

Exploring Ninety Six National Historic Site
The Ninety Six National Historic Site, also called Old Ninety Six and Star Fort, is about 60 miles from Greenville, 125 miles from Charlotte, North Carolina, and 180 miles from Charleston.

The visitor center and historic site are open Wednesday through Sunday, 9 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Check the National Park Service website before your visit for current hours and any changes to access. The page also lists special events that might interest you. The site is a part of the larger 1,000-acre federal park, managed by the National Park Service. Those grounds are open from dawn until dusk. Lake Greenwood State Park is also nearby, and both parks offer hiking trails, a pond, and enviable birdwatching.

Visitor Center and Museum
Make your first stop the visitor center; ask a few questions, pick up a map of the grounds, and learn more about the settlement and the battles that shaped its history. Ranger Joe has a wealth of information and tips at his fingertips—and he holds a steady camera, too.

The museum reopened in June 2026 with updated exhibits. The displays include original artifacts and weapons, along with interactive exhibits about the people and events connected to Ninety Six.

One feature I particularly liked was the tactile map, which lets you get a closer look at the site's layout and the underground mining tunnel built during the siege. And then there's a mini version of Kosciuszko's Tunnel that kids—and, let's face it, big kids—can crawl through. History class might have been a lot more fun if my teachers had included that!

You can also watch the park's 22-minute film, Ninety Six: Crossroads of a Revolution, shown upon request. It's a useful introduction before heading outdoors to see the historic landscape for yourself.

The visitor center also has a park store with books, publications, and souvenirs related to Ninety Six and the Revolutionary War. If you're visiting with children, ask about the Junior Ranger program, which lets young explorers learn about the site and earn a badge.

Walking the Battlefield Trail
The paved Battlefield Trail is about a mile long. It takes you through the historic village site and past the Revolutionary War defenses. Interpretive signs along the way explain what happened here and help put the battlefield in context.

One highlight is the original Star Fort, an earthen fortification Loyalist soldiers built in 1781 under the direction of engineer Lieutenant Henry Haldane. Its distinctive eight-pointed star shape let defenders cover multiple approaches with their weapons. The design was effective, but building the fort was difficult.

Kosciuszko's Mine (or Kosciuszko's Tunnel) was constructed in 1781 during the siege of Ninety Six. General Greene assigned military engineer Thaddeus Kosciuszko to plan a way to overcome the British in Star Fort. His solution was a subterranean tunnel from the American lines toward the fort, which he planned to fill with explosives.

The 125-foot-long, three-and-a-half-foot-tall vaulted brick-and-mortar tunnel has survived nearly 250 years. It is visible, but not accessible to visitors. In the 1920s, locals stabilized the entrance, and children used it as a clubhouse. It is believed to be the only tunnel built during the Revolutionary War, and it is certainly the only one still standing.

Along the way, you'll pass reconstructed siege works, the Stockade Fort, and remnants of the roads that once made Ninety Six an important crossroads in the South Carolina backcountry.

The End of the Loop
Look for the marker honoring James Birmingham. Birmingham was a member of the Long Cane Militia and was killed during the 1775 conflict at Williamson's Fort. He is recognized as the first Patriot killed during fighting in the South.

As you finish the loop, you will end up at the Logan Log House, Greenwood County's oldest house. Andrew Logan built the two-story log house around 1767. Over the years, people updated and improved the home and encased it in siding. In 1967, as workers prepared to demolish the home, they uncovered the historic cabin and ultimately saved it. It has been relocated twice and, since 1971, has had a permanent home at the Ninety Six National Historic Site.

The Ninety Six National Historic Site often has living history days, with reenactors demonstrating military skills that would have been critical during the Revolutionary War.

Where to Eat & Drink

Break on the Lake (Greenwood) is located right on the edge of Lake Greenwood. This is the place to relax, enjoy the view, sip a cocktail, and wait for your meal. Seafood is a specialty, but the steaks get plenty of praise, too. Naturally, I had to try the Watermelon Crawl, one of their signature mocktails.

Indigenous Underground (Abbeville) has been serving delicious food since 2021. Chef Erica "Trudy" McCier puts her unique spin on Southern dishes like soul rolls, bourbon-glazed pork chops, and alligator bites. In 2023 the Governor of South Carolina selected Chef Erica as one of that year's three South Carolina Chef Ambassadors.

Indigenous Underground is also a Fresh on the Menu certified restaurant. The program recognizes restaurants that source at least 25% of their ingredients from South Carolina when those products are in season. Chef Erica goes well beyond that, sourcing 80% of her ingredients from South Carolina-certified farms.

Chef Erica had a vision, and says she wanted "to create a gathering place for friends, families, locals, and visitors to experience big city flavors." Let me tell you—she's delivered! Read more about Indigenous Underground in FWT magazine.

Jo Tip: Go at lunch and try it all! (And don't skip the Black Eye Pea Gumbo.)

Main Street Coffee Co. (Abbeville) is minutes from the Veranda on Main and a great stop when you want more than just coffee. Grab a latte or smoothie to go, or sit down and enjoy a muffin, breakfast, brunch, or lunch.

The Rough House (Abbeville) has been making hot dogs on the square in historic downtown for nearly a century—and playing a bit of pool on the side. Chili dogs and ice cream—what else does a body need?

96 Pecan Company. Okay, it isn't a restaurant, but I ate my fill of delicious, fresh South Carolina pecans at the factory in Ninety Six. And brought home more tempting treats than I should have been allowed to carry. I do love crunchy praline pecans, and chocolate covered pecans, but their Lemon Crunch was out-of-this-world scrumptious. Unfortunately, they do ship...I'm in such trouble.

Where to Stay: The Veranda on Main
Located within walking distance of historic downtown Abbeville, The Veranda on Main is a charming bed and breakfast in a Southern Greek Revival-style home. Owned and operated by Darris and Karla Stoll, the inn offers beautifully decorated rooms, comfortable common areas, and shady porches with rockers. A continental breakfast includes baked goods, cereals, granola, homemade yogurt, and milk from local cows.

On August 22, Ninety Six National Historic Site turned 50. There was quite a birthday celebration. If you missed it, circle the date on your calendar for next year and check the site's webpage for the details, maybe it will be an annual party.

Jo Tip: Take your ear plugs—there will be cannon involved.

To learn more about Ninety Six and the surrounding Old 96 District, read Jo's article: "The Ultimate Old 96 District Trip: B&Bs to Battlefields (Abbeville, Edgefield, Greenwood & Ninety Six - plus a bonus: Spartanburg)" on RecipesTravelCulture.com.

Jo Clark is a travel writer and photographer based in South Carolina's Grand Strand. She has a thirst for knowledge, history, great food, and wine! She does her very best to live up to her podcast title and Instagram handle, "Jo Goes Everywhere!" Follow her there and on her Facebook page. She is the editor of RecipesTravelCulture.com.

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