A TANGO SHOW SHOULD BE ON YOUR LIST OF MUST-SEE EXPERIENCES IN BUENOS AIRES

By Debbie Stone

Buenos Aires, the “Paris of South America,” is the lively capital of Argentina. Dynamic and culturally rich, it’s a place of colorful history, neoclassical architecture, incredible food and wine, diverse neighborhoods, and natural green spaces. Combining old and new, traditional and cosmopolitan, the city beckons visitors from across the globe.

The arts flourish in Buenos Aires, which is home to great poets, painters, musicians, and dancers. Most famous, perhaps, is its tango scene, as here is where the Argentinian dance form originated back in the mid-19th century. European immigrants are credited with its creation, and its roots lie in a cultural meld of Cuban habanera, African candombe, waltz, polka, and other traditional dances.

Former slaves and the working and lower classes brought tango into the streets out of a need to find comfort and as a way to express the longing for what they had left behind. The dance felt like home to those who were far from their homelands. Later, it extended to the whole society and became tied to the city’s cultural identity.

By the 1930s, tango had taken Buenos Aires and the rest of the world by storm. Its meteoric rise was no surprise, as it had all the ingredients to ensure popularity – romance, nostalgia, passion, and sizzling sensuality, not to mention impressive creativity.

Tango has also played an important role in shaping the country’s history. It’s seen as a symbol of resilience and unity—a means for Argentinians to celebrate their triumphs, as well as deal with their struggles and challenges together.

At one point, however, tango was denounced as degenerate and immoral. Because the dance is performed in a daringly close embrace, it provoked alarm and criticism in its opponents. This led to the government banning it from public areas for a period of time. Fortunately, art is persistent and relentless, an unstoppable form of creative expression, and the Argentine tango was able to persevere for the ages.

Today, the city remains the world capital of tango and offers visitors many opportunities to see performances. There are professional stage productions, tango-themed cafés, and milongas. The latter are traditional social gatherings where amateur dancers gather, often looking for the ideal partner. They may be held in an elegant hall, a community center, or a bar.

Those who tango emphasize that it’s more than a dance style – more than just fancy steps. It’s “a secret danced between two people” that relies on intuition and connection between the dancers. They say that tango is felt in the heart and not the feet.

On a recent trip to Buenos Aires, I watched tango dancers in the streets, strutting their moves primarily for tourists’ entertainment (and tips). As I wanted to see much more of this sultry dance, I opted to spend an evening at La Ventana.

Located in San Telmo, an important historic area in Buenos Aires where the cobblestoned streets take you back in time to recreate days gone by, you’ll find La Ventana. The building was an old tenement house that you might have found in the late 1800s, but it has been fully restored and is now one of the most prestigious tango show venues in the city.

You can choose to enjoy a sumptuous three-course dinner prior to the show or arrive later for the performance itself. There is also an option for pick-up and drop-off transportation from your hotel for easy convenience.

The dinner was good, offering several selections for each course. The steak entrée was the most popular choice by the looks of people’s plates—as in Argentina, steak reigns supreme. And of course, there was wine: a tasty, full-bodied Malbec. This wine has become synonymous with Argentina and has turned the country into a household name for wine lovers. It is interesting to note that Argentina leads global production of the grape, with over 75% of all the acres of Malbec in the world.

The two-hour, memorable show was comprised of a live orchestra playing traditional instruments, along with professional singers and amazing dancers—a total of 32 artists. The dancers were mesmerizing as they performed bold, acrobatic moves at a whip-quick pace while exuding fiery passion. It was amazing to me how in sync the couples were and how they executed the intricate steps with such sharp precision.

The orchestra was equally impressive, performing both tango and folk music with traditional instruments such as the charango (a stringed instrument similar to a lute) and the bandoneon, a unique, accordion-like instrument that produces the authentic and emotional sound of tango.

The main singers, one man and one woman, had strong, melodic voices, adding high quality to the overall production. The woman brought down the house when she sang a great rendition of “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina,” the well-known song from the musical and film Evita. Her powerful voice stirred the audience to a rising ovation.

A boleadoras-twirling gaucho was another highlight. The boleadoras is a type of throwing weapon that gauchos traditionally used to catch cattle and other animals. It consists of two or three stone balls, lined with leather, tied to ropes that join at a common chord. Years ago, boleadoras were introduced to the stage as a musical and performance instrument.

As I watched this performer spin his boleadoras around at breakneck speeds in different configurations, it made my head spin. I couldn’t take my eyes off him, and the sounds of the stone balls slapping the stage floor created an exciting percussion that accompanied the performer’s rhythmical footwork. He created incredible tension through his intensity and energy, resulting in a spellbinding and hypnotic act.

If after seeing a show you’re motivated to give the dance a go, know there are plenty of schools in the city offering classes. Some have sessions geared specifically toward visitors who just want a taste of this fascinating art form. To truly learn this challenging dance, however, takes time, practice, skill, and talent. And the right partner!

If You Go: www.laventanaweb.com/en

Debbie Stone is an established travel writer and columnist, and regular contributor for Big Blend Radio and Big Blend Magazines, who crosses the globe in search of unique destinations and experiences to share with her readers and listeners. She’s an avid explorer who welcomes new opportunities to increase awareness and enthusiasm for places, culture, food, history, nature, outdoor adventure, wellness, and more. Her travels have taken her to nearly 100 countries and all seven continents.

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