On this episode of Big Blend Radio’s “Wander the World” Podcast, Sharon K. Kurtz shares a slow-travel journey through Sweden — by ferry, train and kayak — from Stockholm’s island museums and Midsummer celebration to Gothenburg’s canals and the car-free islands of the Southern Archipelago.

Listen to the conversation below, then read Sharon’s full article for all the details and links to plan your own Swedish adventure.

Watch the podcast episode below or download/listen to the audio version on Podbean:

SWEDEN BY LAND AND SEA: SLOWING DOWN THROUGH STOCKHOLM, GOTHENBURG AND TWO ARCHIPELAGOS
By Sharon K. Kurtz

I didn’t expect ferries to become one of my favorite memories of Sweden.

Before arriving, I imagined centuries-old palaces, colorful waterfront buildings, Viking history and cinnamon buns. I certainly found all of those. What surprised me was how often I found myself stepping aboard a ferry. In Stockholm, boats glide between islands as naturally as buses move through most cities. In Gothenburg, ferries carry commuters, cyclists and visitors to quiet islands where cars are almost nonexistent, and life slows to the rhythm of the sea.

Throughout Sweden, the water was never far away. It framed my walks through Stockholm, separated the city’s island museums and led the way into Gothenburg’s Southern Archipelago. Moving between these places became one of the pleasures of the trip rather than time spent waiting to arrive.

Stockholm is spread across 14 islands, yet it feels remarkably easy to explore. Bridges, ferries and waterfront promenades link the neighborhoods, making the city feel both grand and intimate.

I based myself at Hotel Skeppsholmen, a peaceful retreat on the island of Skeppsholmen. Although it sits just minutes from the heart of the city, evenings felt wonderfully tranquil. Boats drifted by my window while I wandered quiet paths before crossing the bridge back into the lively streets of Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s beautifully preserved Old Town.

Like many first-time visitors, I was drawn to the Vasa Museum on nearby Djurgården. Seeing the massive 17th-century warship, preserved after spending more than 300 years beneath the Baltic Sea, was every bit as impressive as promised. Just a short walk away, the ABBA Museum celebrated another chapter of Swedish history with interactive exhibits that had visitors singing along with one of the country’s greatest musical exports.

One of the highlights of my trip happened almost by accident. My visit coincided with Midsummer, one of Sweden’s most cherished celebrations. At Skansen, the world’s oldest open-air museum, families gathered beneath brilliant blue skies to raise the maypole, dance to traditional music and celebrate the longest days of the year. Watching generations of Swedes share customs that have endured for centuries made me feel less like a tourist and more like a welcomed guest.

Food became another way to understand Stockholm. On a guided Nordic food tour, I sampled Swedish specialties while learning how geography, seasons and tradition continue to shape everyday cuisine. Between stops, I discovered another Swedish ritual that quickly became one of my favorites: fika. More than coffee and a pastry, fika is permission to pause, connect and enjoy the moment.

Before leaving Stockholm, I boarded another ferry for Fjäderholmarna, the closest island in the Stockholm Archipelago. Just a short ride from the city, it offered rocky shorelines, artisan shops and peaceful walking paths that hinted at the thousands of islands stretching into the Baltic Sea.

The journey between Stockholm and Gothenburg became part of the adventure.

Instead of flying or renting a car, I settled into a comfortable train and watched Sweden unfold outside my window. Forests, lakes, red cottages and open farmland drifted by as the countryside quietly changed from one region to the next.

It reminded me that in Sweden, the journey is often the experience.

Stockholm impresses at first glance. Gothenburg grows on you.

The country’s second-largest city immediately impressed me with its relaxed personality. Historic canals weave through downtown; trams glide efficiently past leafy parks and nearly everything is within walking distance.

My home base, the Avalon Hotel, overlooked bustling Kungsportsplatsen, where locals and visitors gathered from morning to evening. The location made it easy to wander through the city’s neighborhoods, browse the historic Stora Saluhallen food market and settle into outdoor cafés where lingering over coffee seemed perfectly acceptable.

Of course, another fika was inevitable. At Da Matteo, the aroma of fresh coffee filled the café as locals lingered over cinnamon and cardamom buns. It didn’t take long to realize that fika is less about what you eat than about making time to pause.

A ride on the Paddan boat revealed yet another side of Gothenburg. Passing under stone bridges and along quiet canals, I saw how closely the city is connected to its waterways. Throughout my travels in Sweden, water seemed woven into everyday life as naturally as streets and sidewalks.

The day ended at Michelin-starred Koka, where local ingredients took center stage in beautifully crafted Nordic dishes. The meal felt distinctly Swedish—creative, seasonal and thoughtfully prepared, with sustainability serving as the foundation rather than the headline.

Yet as much as I enjoyed Gothenburg itself, the city’s greatest treasure waited just offshore.

A simple ferry ride carried me into what became my favorite part of the trip.

Within an hour of downtown Gothenburg, I found myself on Styrsö, one of the car-free islands of the Southern Archipelago, where I spent two peaceful nights. Suddenly, there were no traffic lights, no crowded streets and no reason to hurry.

Walking paths replaced busy roads. Bicycles leaned against weathered fences. Small harbors welcomed fishing boats and sailboats instead of tour buses.

From Styrsö, I crossed the bridge to neighboring Donsö, where a local guide introduced me to the island from the seat of a kayak. Paddling along the rocky shoreline, we explored quiet coves while seabirds circled overhead and summer cottages dotted the coastline.

Back on land, I continued exploring at an easy pace and stopped at Popsicle, a family-run gathering place in the island’s old firehouse that’s equal parts café and knitting shop. Browsing the yarn and chatting with the owners offered another glimpse into the welcoming spirit of the islands.

A short ferry ride later, I arrived on Vrångö. Hiking paths wound across rocky shoreline and low coastal vegetation, with sweeping views of the sea at nearly every turn. It was an easy escape from the city without traveling very far.

Those islands weren’t filled with famous landmarks. Instead, they offered something increasingly rare: silence, simplicity and space to appreciate nature.

For more ideas on exploring Sweden’s islands, coastal regions and outdoor experiences, visit Visit Sweden.

When I look back on my journey, I don’t think first about checking famous attractions off a list.

My pace changed without any effort. I lingered over coffee, walked whenever I could and came to enjoy the ferry rides as much as the destinations. Sharing the boats with cyclists, families and people commuting from one island to another offered a glimpse of everyday life that no guided tour could have provided.

As travelers, we often chase the next landmark or photograph. Sweden gently reminded me that the most meaningful souvenirs aren’t always things we can pack. They’re the moments that encourage us to see the world—and perhaps ourselves—a little differently.

Sometimes they’re simply the ones that leave room to breathe.

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🌍 Learn more about travel writer & photographer Sharon K. Kurtz: SharonKKurtz.com