This episode of Big Blend Radio's Wanderers Compass Podcast heads to Slovenia with travel writers Joelle Machia and Ryan Slough. They have visited twice and talk with Lisa D. Smith about Ljubljana, the Julian Alps, Lake Bled and Lake Bohinj, the Vršič Pass, Lipizzaner horses, bees, castles and what a young country has learned about peace.

Listen to the full episode, then read Joelle and Ryan's Slovenia article below:

SLOVENIA: A SMALL COUNTRY WITH AN EXTRAORDINARY STORY
By Joelle Machia and Ryan Slough

We've visited Slovenia twice, and each journey has given us more reasons to return. Covering just over 7,800 square miles, this Central European country offers an extraordinary variety of experiences within a relatively small area. One day we're exploring a lively capital; the next we're driving through the Alps, visiting medieval castles, or venturing deep underground.

We were also struck by how prosperous, orderly, and safe Slovenia felt. Its well-maintained towns and modern infrastructure reflect considerable economic progress since independence in 1991. In 2025, Slovenia's GDP per capita, adjusted for purchasing power, reached approximately 90 percent of the European Union average. It also ranked fourth worldwide in the 2026 Global Peace Index.

For travelers, that sense of security adds considerably to the experience. We felt comfortable exploring Ljubljana's lively streets well into the evening and traveling through the countryside.

Situated between Italy, Austria, Hungary, and Croatia, Slovenia has experienced centuries of Habsburg influence, two world wars, and decades as part of Yugoslavia.

Following World War II, Slovenia became one of six republics within socialist Yugoslavia under Josip Broz Tito. In June 1991, it declared independence, leading to the brief Ten-Day War. Slovenia subsequently joined NATO and the European Union in 2004.

That complicated history remains visible throughout the country, from medieval fortresses and historic churches to former presidential estates and Cold War relics. Yet modern Slovenia has a strong national identity and an obvious pride in its heritage.

There are cities where we feel compelled to keep moving, checking off attractions and trying to fit everything into the day. Ljubljana has quite the opposite effect on us. We simply want to stay longer.

The Ljubljanica River winds through the historic center, passing beneath beautiful bridges and alongside colorful buildings, restaurants, and outdoor cafés. By day, pedestrians fill the streets and riverfront. After dark, illuminated buildings and lively restaurant terraces create an atmosphere we find especially appealing.

We've spent hours wandering here, enjoying a capital that feels sociable and energetic without the frantic pace of larger European cities.

Much of Ljubljana's architectural character reflects the work of Jože Plečnik, who helped reshape the city during the first half of the 20th century. His celebrated Triple Bridge and elegant Central Market colonnades remain integral parts of everyday life.

The market itself is another favorite. Seasonal produce, flowers, cheeses, honey, and regional specialties fill the stalls as residents shop and converse with vendors.

For us, Ljubljana is best experienced on foot, with enough time to wander without a particular destination.

We've visited countless European churches, yet St. Nicholas Cathedral genuinely surprised us. Its relatively modest exterior gives little indication of the magnificent Baroque interior, where elaborate frescoes, gilded details, and richly decorated altars demand attention.

The ceiling paintings by Giulio Quaglio date to the early 18th century. Even the bronze doors are fascinating, installed in 1996 to commemorate Pope John Paul II's visit and depicting chapters of Slovenian religious history.

Elsewhere, Ljubljana's public art takes a decidedly strange turn.

At Butchers' Bridge, thousands of love locks share space with unsettling bronze sculptures by Jakov Brdar. His exaggerated figures create an unusual contrast with the romantic declarations attached to the railings.

Nearby, on Ključavničarska ulica, or Locksmith Street, Brdar's installation Faces features 700 bronze casts of human faces set into a channel in the pavement. Some smile, others grimace, and several look positively anguished.

We found ourselves studying the expressions, fascinated by an installation that is both intriguing and slightly creepy.

And, of course, there are the dragons. Four imposing examples guard Dragon Bridge, celebrating a creature that has become an enduring symbol of Ljubljana.

As dedicated castle hunters, we certainly weren't going to overlook Ljubljana Castle, perched high above the historic center.

The fortress has medieval origins and served various purposes over the centuries, including as a defensive stronghold, prison, and military facility. Today, its restored spaces and historical exhibitions do an excellent job of presenting the castle's past and the broader history of Ljubljana.

We particularly appreciated that emphasis on interpretation. Exploring historic buildings is much more rewarding when visitors can understand the people and events connected to them.

The views are another reason to visit. From Castle Hill, Ljubljana's red rooftops, church towers, and winding river spread out below, with distant mountains visible on clear days.

Our recommendation is to take the funicular up and walk back down. The ride is enjoyable and saves the uphill climb, while the descent offers changing views and a pleasant walk through the wooded hillside.

It's a combination of history, scenery, and a little adventure that makes Ljubljana Castle an essential stop.

Although we adore Ljubljana, our favorite place to stay in Slovenia is Elegans Hotel Brdo, near Kranj.

The hotel offers a peaceful setting beside the expansive Brdo Estate, with gardens, lakes, wooded walking paths, and mountain views. Brdo Castle also has an intriguing political history, having served as one of Yugoslav President Tito's residences. The estate remains associated with Slovenian state functions.

But one of our favorite features has four legs!

The park has Lipizzaner horses that we could visit at their stables while exploring the grounds, without a guided tour. We may have returned to cuddle these beautiful animals more than a few times.

We also enjoy seeing local residents using the park, which feels like a genuine community gathering place rather than simply a hotel attraction.

Between its comfortable accommodations, beautiful surroundings, and convenient access to Ljubljana and the countryside, Elegans has become our preferred Slovenian base.

One of Slovenia's greatest pleasures is discovering towns that receive far less international attention than Ljubljana or Lake Bled.

Kranj, situated above the confluence of the Sava and Kokra rivers, has a lovely historic center with narrow streets and attractive architecture. The town is closely associated with France Prešeren, Slovenia's national poet, who spent his final years here.

Nearby Škofja Loka is one of the country's best-preserved medieval towns. Its historic square, centuries-old buildings, bridges, and castle overlooking the community make it particularly appealing to us.

Neither town requires an elaborate sightseeing agenda. We enjoy walking through their streets, appreciating the architecture, and observing everyday Slovenian life.

These are exactly the kinds of places we encourage travelers to seek out. Slovenia's charm extends well beyond its famous landmarks, and some of the most enjoyable discoveries happen where relatively few international visitors wander.

Lake Bled is undeniably beautiful. Its island church, medieval castle, and mountain backdrop explain why it has become one of Slovenia's most photographed destinations.

But we've also found Bled crowded, expensive, and heavily oriented toward tourism. We recommend visiting, although we prefer staying somewhere quieter.

For us, that was the Lake Bohinj area, farther into the Julian Alps. The scenery is stunning, with mountains rising above the water and smaller communities offering a more relaxed atmosphere. We encountered more Slovenian visitors here, which made the experience especially enjoyable.

One of our favorite discoveries was the Church of St. John the Baptist in Ribčev Laz, beside the picturesque stone bridge at the lake's eastern end.

The church's modest exterior hardly prepares visitors for its extraordinary medieval frescoes, some dating to the 14th century. We were captivated by the biblical scenes, saints, and remarkable details covering the interior.

After visiting so many impressive European churches, finding such beautiful artwork in this small lakeside setting was a wonderful surprise.

Lake Bled deserves its reputation, but Lake Bohinj captured our affection.

Driving over Vršič Pass, Slovenia's highest paved mountain pass at 1,611 meters, is an unforgettable experience.

Its 50 hairpin bends wind through the Julian Alps, revealing steep slopes, forests, and dramatic mountain scenery. Yet behind this spectacular route lies a tragic history.

During World War I, Russian prisoners of war were forced to build the road to supply Austro-Hungarian forces fighting along the Isonzo Front. Conditions were dangerous, particularly during winter.

In March 1916, an avalanche killed prisoners and guards working on the mountainside. The exact death toll remains uncertain.

Today, the Russian Chapel stands among the trees as a memorial to those who suffered and died. Built during the war by Russian prisoners, it is a moving reminder of the human cost behind this scenic mountain road.

We recommend stopping rather than simply driving past. Understanding its history changes the way we experience the landscape.

Even after visiting hundreds of castles, Predjama managed to surprise us.

Built into the entrance of a towering limestone cliff, it holds the Guinness World Record as the world's largest cave castle. The fortress appears to emerge directly from the rock, while the cave passages behind it once provided a remarkable defensive advantage.

Predjama's most famous resident was Erasmus of Lueg, a 15th-century knight who defied the Habsburg authorities.

According to legend, Erasmus survived a lengthy siege by secretly obtaining supplies through passages behind the castle. His story supposedly ended when a servant betrayed him and a cannonball struck while he was using the toilet.

Whether every detail is historically accurate is debatable, but it's certainly a memorable tale!

What fascinated us most was the ingenious use of the natural landscape. Predjama is unlike the traditional hilltop fortresses we've explored elsewhere, and its extraordinary setting alone makes it worth visiting.

A short drive from Predjama Castle, Postojna Cave reveals another side of Slovenia's remarkable limestone landscape.

Our visit began with an electric train ride deep underground, followed by a guided walk through enormous chambers decorated with stalactites, stalagmites, and intricate rock formations.

But one of Postojna's most unusual attractions is a tiny creature known as the olm.

This pale aquatic salamander, adapted to life in darkness, is sometimes called the human fish. It also has a far more entertaining nickname: baby dragon.

Centuries ago, when people encountered these mysterious animals emerging from underground waters, folklore suggested they might be the offspring of dragons living beneath the mountains.

We love that connection between natural history and mythology, particularly in a country where dragons already feature so prominently in local identity.

The olm is a fascinating survivor, capable of living for decades in its underground environment.

Between the extraordinary cave formations and the story of these mysterious creatures, Postojna offers much more than a typical underground tour.

One of our most memorable experiences in Slovenia happened at Hotel Jama, where we stayed independently during our visit to Postojna.

During renovations, concealed rooms and communications equipment associated with Yugoslavia's Cold War-era security apparatus were discovered inside the hotel. Today, visitors can explore these hidden spaces through a self-guided audio experience.

We chose to visit at night.

As it turned out, we were the only two people there.

Moving through the concealed rooms with our audio guide, examining old equipment, and listening to stories about the hotel's secretive past was fascinating. But the nighttime setting added an eerie element we hadn't anticipated.

Every unexpected sound seemed louder, and we became keenly aware that nobody else was exploring those hidden spaces with us.

We hadn't expected to feel quite so unsettled. Naturally, that also made the experience tremendously fun!

The combination of Cold War history, concealed rooms, and unexpected solitude transformed a historical exhibition into an adventure we won't soon forget.

Our exploration of southwestern Slovenia also brought us to Lipica, birthplace of the famous Lipizzan horses.

Established in 1580 under the Habsburgs, the Lipica Stud Farm has preserved more than four centuries of equestrian heritage. The breed developed here became closely associated with classical dressage and the Spanish Riding School in Vienna.

One fascinating detail is that many Lipizzan horses are born with dark coats that gradually lighten as they mature, eventually becoming the pale gray horses for which the breed is famous.

We especially enjoy visiting places where a cultural tradition remains closely connected to its origins. Lipica offers that connection through its horses, historic stables, and enduring breeding heritage.

It's also remarkable how much variety this region offers. Within a relatively short distance, travelers can experience a medieval cave castle, a vast underground cave system, Cold War secrets, and centuries of equestrian history.

Slovenia's cuisine reflects its location between Central Europe, the Mediterranean, and the Balkans, and we always enjoy exploring those culinary influences.

Traditional specialties include štruklji, rolled dumplings with sweet or savory fillings; potica, a rolled pastry often filled with walnuts; and kranjska klobasa, the celebrated Carniolan sausage.

The country also has a longstanding wine culture, producing an impressive range of white and red wines across its distinct growing regions.

For us, food is another way to understand a destination. Browsing Ljubljana's market, sampling regional specialties, and enjoying meals in smaller communities add another layer to the experience.

After two visits, Slovenia remains high on our return list.

We love Ljubljana's lively riverfront, beautiful cathedral, unusual artwork, and historic castle. We've grown attached to Elegans Hotel Brdo and its peaceful grounds, and we still think about the remarkable frescoes at Lake Bohinj, the dramatic Julian Alps, and the unusual experiences around Postojna.

But perhaps what appeals to us most is how much remains to discover.

Our advice is to allow time beyond Ljubljana and Lake Bled. Rent a car if you're comfortable driving, explore smaller towns, and follow your curiosity when something interesting appears along the way.

Slovenia has rewarded us on both journeys, giving us memorable experiences, fascinating history, and an ever-growing list of reasons to return.

And we fully intend to do just that.

Joelle Machia and Ryan Slough are the hosts of the Wanderers Compass podcast on Big Blend Radio and founders of the Wanderers Compass travel blog. Follow their adventures at WanderersCompass.com.

Learn more about Joelle and Ryan on their Big Blend Expert Page.

Check out the Wanderers Compass Digital Podcast Magazine.

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