By Debbie Stone

Prior to my recent visit to Boise, Idaho, I had only been there on road trips as an overnight stopover. Though I had eaten at a few spots downtown and walked past the campus of Boise State University, I never had time to check out any of the city’s attractions. My impressions on the surface had always been favorable though, as the city was clean, people were pleasant and it was a pedestrian-friendly town.

After spending three days here, my favorable impressions continued to grow the more I explored this refreshing, low-key destination. It surprised me on several levels, as it has so much more to offer visitors than meets the eye. I discovered an array of fascinating cultural and historical sights, eclectic shops, a lively food scene and plenty of green spaces to enjoy outdoor recreation activities.

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One of the most intriguing attractions in Boise has to be the Old Idaho Penitentiary, which is actually a top point of interest in town. Although you can walk around the place on your own, as buildings are well labeled, I highly recommend taking the guided tour, as you’ll hear some great stories that will enrich the experience.

Built in 1870, the penitentiary is one of only four territorial prisons currently open to the public. During its operation, the site saw its fair share of daring escapes, riots, scandals and executions. It finally closed in 1973 after inmates rioted over poor living conditions. Today, it’s a museum, and has the distinction of being on the National Register of Historic Places.

Boise residents refer to the prison as “Old Pen” and local legend claims it’s haunted by the ghosts of former guards and executed inmates. In fact, it’s reputed to be one of the most haunted locations in the country.

During the tour, you’ll walk through massive, multi-story, cell blocks, peer through the bars into the claustrophobic-inducing and depressing cells with their flaking paint and cracked toilets, see death row, solitary confinement, otherwise known as “Siberia,” the gallows room, the inmate’s barber cell and the buildings that were burnt down during the 1973 riots. It’s easy to imagine a life of confinement behind these steel doors when you see and hear about the conditions.

The penitentiary is reminiscent of a fortress with its guard turrets and thick walls, constructed so as to evoke a “somber, dark environment deemed appropriate for prisoners.” Inmates actually helped build it, quarrying the sandstone and doing construction labor.

The one bright spot at Old Pen are all the rose bushes. Many are 100 years old and continue to bloom in exquisite hues, while emitting their perfumed aroma. It was odd to see these beautiful flowers amid the otherwise drab and forbidding scene.

While doing their time, prisoners were encouraged to work, to prevent idleness. They labored in the blacksmith and carpenter shops, shirt and license plate factory, library, garden and kitchen, allowing the penitentiary to become almost entirely self-sufficient.

Your guide will share details about some of the prison’s most infamous inmates, such as Harry Orchard, who spent 46 years at Old Pen. Orchard had assassinated a former governor of Idaho with a bomb. And although he also confessed to killing at least 17 men, surprisingly he turned out to be a model prisoner.

Model prisoners were often rare at Old Pen and during its years of operation, there were over 500 escape attempts. Some ran away from work assignments, dug tunnels, climbed walls or used makeshift ropes to carry them down from building tops. One man, Dennis Clark, held the record for the most counts of escape – seventeen. The majority were caught and promptly punished.

You’ll also learn about two of the youngest prisoners at Old Pen; ten year old Oscar Baker, who shot a man who was hurting his father and Jimmy Whitaker, age eleven, who shot his mother over a dispute about doing laundry. Oscar was sentenced to five years in prison, but after serving eight months, he was pardoned by the governor. Jimmy, on the other hand, had to serve eleven years due to the circumstances of his crime.

As for executions, there were only ten at Old Pen and they were all death by hanging. The last one carried out was that of Idaho’s own Jack the Ripper, Raymond Snowden. His took place in the specially built gallows room. This actually was the only time this room was used. All the other executions occurred outdoors.

Museums abound in town. If it’s art you want, head to the Boise Art Museum. And if you can get there before the end of July, you’re in for a treat with “Jeffrey Gibson: They Teach Love,” an exceptional exhibit on display. Gibson is one of today’s foremost contemporary American artists. His Mississippi Choctaw and Cherokee heritage plays an important part in his work, which melds indigenous art and culture with modernist art traditions in a eye-catching, colorful manner.

Another exhibit that will close later this summer is also of note. “Here We Have Idaho: Belonging” is a showcase for photographers Sofia Jaramillo and Ceci Richardson-Salvador. The Idaho-based artists engage with the state’s landscape in different ways. Jaramillo uses portraits to present the history of winter sports and a predominantly Eurocentric ski culture across the American West by “evoking the narrative power of a world that equally accepts people of all skin colors.” A number of the portraits were taken in Sun Valley, a well-known ski mecca in Idaho.

Richardson-Salvador uses techniques like long exposure and focus manipulation in her nature-centered photographs and combines them with embroidery, topographical maps and fly fishing line. Her message emphasizes the connection between people and the natural world. The show-stopper installation, “Homage to the Salmon River,” features photos taken during her years rafting on Idaho’s Salmon River, photographing it and hiking alongside it.

Art beyond the traditional gallery venue, in the form of murals and graffiti, can be found in Freak Alley. This public venue, which is said to be the largest outdoor gallery in the Northwest, all began in 2002 with a single painting of an alley doorway. Now, it spans from the alley itself to a gravel parking lot. Each year, murals are painted over and replaced by new ones.

History lovers will appreciate the Idaho State Museum. The expansive, 80,000 square feet building contains interactive exhibits and artifacts that explore the story of Idaho and the relationship between its people and its land. One gallery introduces visitors to Idaho’s five federally recognized tribes and provides an introduction to the many landscapes throughout the state. From lakes and forests to mountains and rivers and deserts and canyons, Idaho’s topography is incredibly diverse.

In another gallery, visitors are encouraged to explore the process of doing history. There are hands-on experiences based on early professions and trades in Idaho, a history lab and personal stories of Idahoans spanning the state’s past. You can even take a personality quiz to see what connections you may have with some of these people.

I was surprised to learn that Boise has the largest Basque population in the country, as well as the third largest of any city in the world. For all things Basque, I made my way to the Basque Museum and Basque Block.

The Basque homeland is a region between France and Spain, near the Pyrenees Mountains. It’s a small area, where ninety percent of all Basques reside. For years, Basque families have made their living in the agricultural and fishing industries. There was a time, though, when many wanted to build better lives, like millions of other European immigrants experiencing hardship.

In the late 1890s and early 1900s, they began to migrate to the U.S., looking for opportunity. The Gold Rush brought them to California for mining and the booming sheep industry offered more jobs in places like Nevada, Idaho, Oregon and Wyoming. It was predominantly Basque males who came to make enough money to return home. They took tough jobs that most Americans didn’t want, like sheepherding, in rural farms.

Soon, their relatives arrived, including a number of Basque women. They settled in communal boardinghouses, where they could join fellow Basques, speak their language and eat familiar food. The women often worked in the boardinghouses and some became proprietors, helping other immigrants deal with the transitions.

The goal to return home dissipated over time, as did the decline of the sheep industry and need for boardinghouses. Most of the people remained, however, eventually learning English skills and adapting to the ways of their new country. This is how western communities retained large Basque populations.

In Boise, the Basque population continues to celebrate its unique and ancient culture. The Basque Museum & Cultural Center offers a deep dive into the heritage of this culture, while interpreting its rich history. Its collections include oral history archives, a library, records and tapes and numerous artifacts and photos. You’ll learn about Basque history in northern Spain, along with the history of the Basque community that settled in Boise.

Next door to the museum is the Cyrus Jacobs/Uberuaga House, which has been restored to its boardinghouse origins. It offers a peek at the lives of former residents and as I walked through these living quarters, it made the history come to life.

I was encouraged to further my interest in the Basque culture by exploring the rest of the Basque Block, which features Basque landmarks and Basque food establishments. The Basque Market was my favorite stop, as I enjoyed perusing all the Basque food products and wines. The market is also a restaurant and a cooking school, where you can learn how to make paella.

As the capital of Idaho, Boise’s capitol building is a beacon in the downtown hub. And it’s a beaut! This treasured historic landmark, which dates back to 1905, is impressive with its grand, double-layered dome and cavernous rotunda that seems to reach up to the sky. I actually gasped when I entered, as it appeared to glow, and I was instantly mesmerized by the sight.

Constructed from four types of marble brought to Idaho from all over the world, the capitol includes a bronze eagle on the top, making the building 208 feet tall. It also includes over 200 pillars, 43 large stars and 13 smaller stars in the dome. You can tour the building on your own or take a guided tour to learn more about this iconic work of art and architecture.

Though you’ll likely walk to many of these downtown destinations, know you can always get more outdoor activity, as parks are plentiful in Boise. Options abound from walking, jogging or cycling along the 25-mile, paved Boise Greenbelt, floating the Boise River, hiking Table Rock, surfing, kayaking or doing SUP on the adjustable wave at the Whitewater Park, and more.

I opted to get some more steps on the Greenbelt, as I heard that it not only provides access to the great outdoors, but also to restaurants, wineries, coffee shops, parks and scenic views. Along the way, I stopped at the Anne Frank Memorial.

Built in 2002 by the Idaho Human Rights Education Center, now the Wassmuth Center For Human Rights, the memorial is an inspirational and contemplative site. And it serves as a testament to Anne’s persistent faith in humanity despite all odds.

I took a moment to read the powerful quotes by famous and unknown individuals inscribed on the stone walls. And I looked at the life-size bronze statue of Anne Frank, who appeared to be pulling back an imaginary curtain and gazing out of a window from her family’s attic hiding place. Then I sat down and just listened to the soothing sounds of the fountains and the trees rustling in the wind.

Just twenty minutes outside of town you’ll find a truly unique attraction, the World Center For Birds of Prey. Put it on your list especially if you’re a birder, but even if you’re not, I guarantee this is one attraction you won’t want to miss.

The World Center for Birds of Prey is the headquarters of the internationally acclaimed Peregrine Fund. The Fund is a non-profit organization that conserves threatened and endangered birds of prey worldwide. The successful recovery of the peregrine falcon in the U.S., which was removed from the U.S. Endangered Species List in 1991, enabled it to expand its mission to include other endangered raptors across the globe. Since forming in 1970, the organization has raised and released over 7,000 birds.

There’s a museum onsite with exhibits about the various birds, including eagles, vultures, hawks, condors, owls and falcons, and the important, ongoing efforts to conserve them in nature.

There’s also “face-to-beak” encounters with some of these creatures during live presentations in the open air arena outside the center. The shows highlight the physical and behavioral adaptations of specific birds of prey, while emphasizing the conservation efforts of the Peregrine Fund.

During the encounter I attended, the presenter introduced us to a red-tailed hawk named “Phoenix” and a peregrine falcon called “Murphy.” Both were handsome creatures, who displayed their attributes well. We got to see them fly around the area, return to the presenter for food and show off their speed, keen vision and sharp talons.

Murphy’s speed was particularly impressive, though the presenter said that he was capable of flying even faster. She noted that peregrine falcons are the fastest creatures in the world, as they can go more than 240 mph. We watched as the presenter used a leather lure, which is designed to look like a bird and attract the attention of the falcon. As a falconer, she uses it mainly to exercise Murphy and demonstrate his prowess as a hunter.

I’m not a big shopper, but I do like to check out some different stores when I’m exploring a new place. Stop in at Idaho Made and Mixed Greens for locally made gifts, Fluff Hardware for boho items, SHIFT Boutique, a trendy clothing store for women and Rediscovered Books, an independent bookstore that’s a book lover’s delight.

Food is always a draw for visitors and Boise doesn’t disappoint in this arena. Goldy’s is a popular breakfast bistro with locals, as well as tourists. There’s often a line outside, but be patient, it’s worth it. The menu has a slew of choices to appeal to even the pickiest eaters. If you like Eggs Benedict, the homemade Hollandaise is commendable. And the scratch pancakes are yummy.

Guru Donuts will satisfy your doughy sugary cravings. Here you’ll find a selection of artisan donuts, regular and vegan raised, old fashioned cake style, and ones made with Idaho potatoes. Try the blackberry/blueberry/lavender glazed Hipsterberry or go for the Boise Inversion, which tastes like a London Fog drink.

The STIL is a must when it comes to ice cream. This locally owned shop, with several locations in the area, specializes in artisanal ice cream with unique flavors and names. There’s Idaho Wilderness, a lavender and berries meld; Easy Like Sunday Morning, a mix of espresso and caramel; Everything Zen, a combo of chocolate cake, caramel and toffee in vanilla with cream cheese; and even booze-infused delights like Field of Dreams, made with beer, butterscotch and peanuts. I’m an ice cream connoisseur and the fact that I went there twice in three days should tell you something.

You’ll find a number of places in Boise specializing in Basque food. Ansots gets top marks in my book. This charming, cozy eatery is owned and operated by Dan, Tamara and Ellie Ansoteguis. The Ansoteguis family has been part of the Basque Idaho scene for over a century. And eating here is akin to taking a culinary trip through the Basque countryside.

The restaurant is known for its authentic flavors and fresh ingredients with dishes that reflect traditional Basque cooking. House-made chorizos and bocadillos with rich spices are the specialty, along with patatas bravas and creamy croquetas, calamari, spinach-filled piquillo peppers and cod and clams. And if you can save room for dessert, you’ll be tempted to try the Basque rice pudding, burnt Basque cheesecake or Gateau Basque.

Hemlock at Inn at 500 Capital shines for dinner. This high-end restaurant, with its buzzy, sleek ambiance, is one of the newer additions to Boise’s culinary scene. The menu is predominantly steak-focused and will naturally appeal to carnivores, with a selection of Wagyu and Filet Mignon entrees. You can even have steak flights, prime cuts chosen by the chef.

If you’re not a meat eater, though, you’ll still enjoy the place. I’m a pescatarian and ordered the pan-seared Alaskan halibut with corn puree, which was impeccably cooked and melted in my mouth. As a side, I had the charred, harissa roasted cauliflower with whipped yogurt and pomegranate seeds. The meld of bold flavors made the dish a standout.

Homebase for me during my stay in Boise was at Inn at 500 Capitol. This well-appointed, upscale boutique property in the heart of downtown is conveniently located to many attractions, restaurants and shops. The minute you walk in, the hospitable and friendly staff makes you feel welcome. Everyone is helpful and kind, and sincere in their desire to make your stay memorable.

Amenities include private balconies, upscale and locally inspired themed rooms, special pet-friendly rooms, butler’s pantries, a fitness center, complimentary luxury shuttle service, including to and from the airport, cruiser bikes for guest usage and local artwork infused throughout the property.

The artwork greets you as soon as enter the lobby. There’s Chihuly-inspired hand-blown glass lighting from Boise Art Glass and a vivid and captivating Idaho landscape painting by local artist Jany Seda. The latter was done in the hotel while the hotel was still under construction – no small feat.

There are 57 themed rooms in this 110-room hotel. Each has a significance to Boise and its surroundings. There’s one highlighting local Basque culture, another about Idaho wine, and of course there’s a potato room as a nod to Idaho’s major crop. Of those I saw, I especially liked the one celebrating the Spirit of Boise Balloon Classic, an annual hot air ballooning event, as well as the one about the Boise Zoo, with its family of giraffes.

From what I was told by the staff, these rooms are very popular and often return guests will request specific ones. I also learned there are plans to create additional themed rooms.

My room was a spacious studio suite with contemporary and tasteful décor. The plush bed had custom Italian linens and I slept like a baby. And the oversized spa-style bathroom, where I spent an inordinate amount of “me” time, boasted a walk-in rain shower with upscale bath products. At the end of a satisfying day, I looked forward to sitting on my private patio and taking in the view of the Boise skyline.


Plan Your Visit
www.visitboise.com
www.innat500.com

Debbie Stone is an established travel writer and columnist, and regular contributor for Big Blend Radio and Big Blend Magazines, who crosses the globe in search of unique destinations and experiences to share with her readers and listeners. She’s an avid explorer who welcomes new opportunities to increase awareness and enthusiasm for places, culture, food, history, nature, outdoor adventure, wellness, and more. Her travels have taken her to nearly 100 countries and all seven continents.

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