My walk through Beidler Forest near Harleyville, South Carolina brought welcome relief from the broiling summer sun. The old-growth forest is just an hour’s drive from Charleston, only a bit longer from Columbia, and under three hours from Myrtle Beach, making it an easy day trip from many parts of the state. And it is certainly worth the drive.

More than 150 species of birds call the Audubon Sanctuary at Francis Beidler Forest home. Hidden deep within Four Holes Swamp, South Carolina’s blackwater creek system, are more than 18,000 acres of towering tupelo gum and bald cypress hardwood forest.

Forest History
Historically, this forest that is now the Audubon’s Francis Beidler Forest Center and Sanctuary was a part of the Muscogee (Creek) Native Americans’ homeland. English settlers later called them “Creeks” because they lived beside rivers and streams.

Chicagoans Francis Beidler and Benjamin Ferguson started the Santee River Cypress Lumber Company. They purchased more than 165,000 acres of South Carolina timber land in 1881. The land was logged for nearly half a century, including blackwater areas that held old-growth bald cypress trees with a circumference of up to 20 feet.

 Economic conditions forced operations to cease in 1914. This made it possible to preserve the two blackwater creeks that are now Congaree National Park and the Francis Beidler Forest. Both properties are listed on the Ramsar List of Wetlands of International Importance, containing trees over 1,000 years old in this, the largest virgin stand of bald cypress and tupelo gum in the world.

After Francis Beidler passed in 1924, the family eventually liquidated the estate, and the National Audubon Society purchased the land, built a boardwalk, and purchased surrounding farmland to ensure continued access.

 Audubon’s Francis Beidler Forest Center and Sanctuary
Why would Audubon invest so heavily in a swamp? Because Audubon didn’t see a swamp. They saw an ecosystem worth protecting. Over 150 bird species, 300 vertebrates, and 300 plants call this swamp home. Many are threatened or vulnerable, like the flatwoods salamander, several bat and snake species, and even flora like the green-fly and shadow-witch orchids. The site is also designated a BirdLife Important Bird Area (IBA).

 Birdwatchers and nature photographers like me enjoy the variety spotted on a quiet afternoon. Herons abound, and swallow-tailed kites can be spotted along the outer edges and even on the drive into the swamp. With almost two miles of boardwalks, it is easy to wander along by yourself, enjoying the quiet solitude of the swamp while catching a fleeting glimpse of a Prothonotary Warbler or the more elusive Hooded Warbler. Don’t be surprised is a squirrel runs along the hand rail rail right beside you. By the time you leave, you’ll have a new bestie.

This remarkable forest also played a role in the Underground Railroad. I found myself wishing those ancient trees could tell the stories they’ve witnessed.

Old-Growth Forest
The Old-Growth Forest Network awards the classification of Old-Growth Forest to only a few locations in each state. It’s not that they don’t want many to hold the designation, but rather the requirements are so stringent that few forests qualify. Three South Carolina forests have earned the designation, joining only three hundred nationwide.

 Old-Growth site requirements include: being more than 20 acres of mature forest, being open to public visitors, and having guidelines to ensure that trees will be allowed to grow undisturbed. These forests allow visitors to enjoy the beauty of the ancient woodlands that hold some of the oldest organisms in the eastern United States. The Old-Growth Forest Network’s online map allows you to find protected forests close to you, or perhaps select one worth planning a road trip to visit. Each one is different, and beautiful in its own way.

The best way to experience Beidler Old-Growth Forest is to walk along the ADA-compliant, 1.75-mile boardwalk (and they have wheelchairs to loan—details later.) From the walk, visitors will see birds, squirrels, and a remarkable assortment of vegetation. Today, scientists estimate that the oldest cypress here is 1,500 years old, and many more, towering 125 feet above the swamp, have passed their thousandth birthday

.During my walk, I explored every nook and cranny available. I backtracked some, and my step counter claimed I put in two miles. I saw some massive trees, but I didn’t spot the Bald cypress with a 10-foot diameter, or the Tupelo gum just half that size.

Interestingly, the boardwalk trail is South Carolina’s longest elevated boardwalk. Fortunately, the boardwalk is flat...mostly. There is a gentle downhill walk as you leave the Visitor Center and descend into the swamp. But remember that downhill—you’ll have that uphill climb waiting for you at the end, so save a little energy for the trip back.

Programs and Experiences Offered
Audubon’s Francis Beidler Forest Center and Sanctuary offers activities and guided tours throughout the year. They have something that will appeal to everyone, no matter their age. Additional prices may apply, so, as always, check the Beidler Forest website.

Boardwalk Tour
On certain days, guided tours are scheduled, allowing visitors to walk along the boardwalk with a trained guide. You stay high above the blackwater, as an Audubon naturalist shares knowledge about the swamp and points out wildlife that thrives in the sanctuary. You will also learn about the native flora and fauna, area culture, and do a bit of birdwatching.

Pro tip: Free guided walks are held on the 2nd Saturday each month. The Audubon Center wants families to have a chance to enjoy nature. You can register on the Center’s page for tickets, good from 9 am - 4 pm, and the cost will be discounted to free at checkout. Occasionally, food trucks and other activities will be on site.

I’m a Bird Watcher, Come Be One Too
Of course, Audubon’s Beidler Forest offers birdwalks with an Audubon guide. This program is designed to entertain visitors of all levels. As they happily point out, “Birding is for Everyone!”

Paddle the Swamp
I think the perfect way to see the forest and swamp is the kayak trip offered in the Spring. These naturalist-guided tours can only happen when the water levels are high enough to prevent damage to the cypress knees and other things growing in the swamp.

Paddling in the gently flowing water between the 1,000-year-old cypress trees is magical, and a view few people ever experience.

Swamps fill up from rainfall, so kayak tours depend on the weather. Usually the trips are scheduled in the Spring, and unlikely to happen between June and November. If additional trips are offered during the year, the information will be posted on the website and on social media. So stay tuned.

Moonlit Night Adventures
Can’t you imagine walking through the swamp on a moonlit night? Maybe seeing a few fireflies with blinking signal lights, while shadows envelope you and moonlight reflects off the water? Some of the glints of light on the water may be alligator eyes watching silently as you walk past. Listen, and you may hear the call of a Barred Owl. And…is that banjo music playing in the background? (grin)

The nighttime tours are offered on selected Saturdays during the year, during the monthly full moon. You are guided through the swamp and learn about the nocturnal life of the swamp. As with all special activities, reservations are required and limited to 25 each night. This program will last about two and a half hours. Children under 10 are not recommended to join this walk.

Pro Tip: No tripods or flash photography is allowed on the nighttime walks.

Nocturnal Family Forays
This program tours the swamp on the darkest Saturday night of the summer months. Families with children walk the boardwalk with a guide, while using a UV flashlight to enjoy seeing the things that glow in the dark. Children and adults will enjoy spotting bugs, mushrooms, and other things that glow bright yellow and teal from the UV lights.

Firefly Nights
For about a month late in the Spring, the forest is open at night to witness the mysterious fireflies. As a child, I grew up catching lightning bugs and putting them in a mayonnaise jar with holes jabbed in the lid to use as a night light, then releasing them the next morning. Have you noticed that you don’t see these elusive creatures as much anymore? They seem to have faded from our memory, and their population is fading from our landscape. Fireflies (lightning bugs) are super sensitive to light. So as our yards and neighborhoods have become brighter, they have become fewer.

 Fireflies are one of several insects that seek refuge in the swamp. Between April and June most years, there are impressive light displays at Beidler. Tickets sell out far in advance. Hopefully one day, they will do the research to determine which species live in the swamp. What is known is that they have synchronizing fireflies, and fireflies with different flashing patterns. In fact, one female firefly is known to change her flash pattern to that of another species, attracting the males of that different species. She has them for dinner, the little cannibal.

Pro Tip: No photography is allowed on the Firefly nights. Bug spray with DEET is not allowed, so come prepared with long sleeves and pants, and a natural insecticide.

Other Special Offerings
Beidler is fully prepared for visitors. Most importantly, it has restrooms and water fountains equipped to fill your tall water bottle. It has an aviary, binoculars to borrow or rent, an electric and a traditional wheelchair to borrow, educational exhibits, meeting space for groups, trails, a swamp boardwalk, a live animal exhibit, a picnic area, a pollinator garden, a gift shop, ample parking, and venue rental.

Know Before You Go
My GPS didn’t have any trouble finding the Beidler Welcome Center using 336 Sanctuary Road, Harleyville, SC 29448.

Beidler Forest is closed on Monday and Tuesday, and open 9 am – 6 pm other days, with shorter hours on Sunday (11-4). Hours are adjusted a bit for daylight saving time, so it is always wise to check their website. There are no camping spots, but facilities can be found in the surrounding area. No dogs are allowed at Beidler, so if you are traveling with a pet, keep this in mind.

Check available programs and register on this registration page.

Other Nearby Adventures
Santee State Park’s 2,500 acres stretch lazily along the shore of Lake Marion, providing shorelines for fishing (for huge catfish), boating, swimming, ten miles of biking and hiking trails, picnicking, camping, and also has rental cabins—some right over the water.

Santee Cooper Country Tourist Information Center holds all the cards—the brochures that is. The staff at the Tourist Center can help you with directions, maps, and answer questions to help you plan your visit to Santee and the South Carolina Lowcountry. And the Audubon Center is full of interesting exhibits, like one display I spotted that was on loan from the Berkley County Museum. The case held such Revolutionary-era items as a shoe buckle, button, a musket flint, and “Brown Bess” musket balls.

Places to Stay and Eat:
Fairfield by Marriott Inn and Suites Santee is a locally owned hotel, with easy access off I-95. The Southern hospitality and charming décor will have you feeling at home with the staff’s first “Hello!” And when they say a hot breakfast, they’re serious. You’ll come downstairs to find scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, oatmeal, and waffles along with the usual continental favorites of fresh fruit and yogurt.

My room was spacious, quiet, and dark, just like I like it! The front desk ladies were all helpful and full of local information and recommendations. I spent some time by the beautiful pool, and would have enjoyed sitting by the fire pit, but it was already 100°, so my next stay will have to be during much cooler weather.

One visit to Clark’s Restaurant makes it clear why it is a local’s and visitor’s favorite. Tucked inside an historic inn, Clark’s (no relation) has been taking care of weary travelers for more than 80 years. Clark's serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner every day of the week, closing only for Christmas Day. Today, its owners and operators are second- and third-generation Clarks.

The first generation, William E. “Bubba” Clark, returned from WWII, picked up his wife, Helena, and baby, and looked for his future. Since he was a mess sergeant in the Army, food was a natural path. Bubba and his father understood the future of travel after the war, and the need for lodging and good food. From that grew a business that is still run with his high standards of delicious food and Southern hospitality. For dinner, I had a cup of Shrimp and Corn Chowder, followed by Fried Green Tomatoes, that arrived with mango chutney and honey mustard sauce. My Moscow Mule was the perfect accompaniment to the meal.

I was impressed with the wait staff, who “autographed” the small drink napkins they placed on tables. It’s a personal touch that made me smile.

Jo Clark is a travel writer and photographer based in South Carolina's Grand Strand. She has a thirst for knowledge, history, great food, and wine! She does her very best to live up to her podcast title and Instagram handle, "Jo Goes Everywhere!" Follow her there and on her Facebook page, https://www.facebook.com/HaveGlassWillTravel/. She is the editor of http://www.RecipesTravelCulture.com.

📖 Check out Jo's New "JO GOES EVERYWHERE!" Digital Podcast Magazine.

🎧 New episodes of Big Blend Radio’s JO GOES EVERYWHERE! Podcast air every 2nd Sunday. Listen & Subscribe: https://jogoeseverywhere.podbean.com/